Saturday, October 24, 2009

Rendering Lard
























It's a four-letter word. And yes, I'm gonna say it. LARD. (Here's your visual: Ralphie in A Christmas Story...."Fuuuuuuuuuddddddgggggge!!!")
It feels so bad. But it tastes so good!
Whilst in my pursuit of the perfect biscuit, I realized I just had to use lard. In the words of Ruhlman, "Lard is an exquisite cooking medium and ingredient". From what I've heard, it's the best fat to use in pie dough and for my beloved biscuits.
But before you get completely disgusted, take heart. Lard is good for you! I know, it's crazy, right?
Lard is a rich source of Vitamin D, second only to cod liver oil. Lard also has less saturated fat, more unsaturated fat, and less cholesterol than butter!
Can you believe it?!? And it has none of those pesky trans-fats!

But finding good quality lard is easier said than done. Not even Whole Foods had it. However, they would save me pork fat trimmings if I called them early enough in the morning. You can buy lard in a can at Mexican grocery stores, but they have to make it shelf stable, so what do they add? You guessed it. Trans-fats (partially hydrogenated soybean oil). However, on a spur of the moment trip to Surfas (a chef's supply store in Culver City), I happened to stumble across frozen leaf lard. And it was so cheap!

Leaf lard is considered to be the best lard. It's the fat that is procured from around the kidneys of the pig. However, you can't just slice off a piece and add it to your dough. It has to be rendered into a malleable product, much like shortening.

So render it I did. I followed the Homesick Texan's directions. Basically all you do is chop up the lard into small pieces, put the lard into a pot, add a little water and turn the heat to medium low. Wait about an hour and a half (stirring occasionally) and what you'll get are cracklin's floating in liquid fat.

At this point, you strain the cracklin's from the liquid, refrigerate the liquid, and voila, there's your lard! I can't wait to try it out!



Monday, October 19, 2009

Biscuit Experiment 02: Sweet Potato Biscuits




































I wasn't going to post this recipe because I was totally unimpressed. I know, I know, sweet potato biscuits have to be delicious, right?
I'm not saying they weren't good, they just didn't meet my standards. I want some lift, some fluffiness! And these didn't do it for me.

The reason I attempted this recipe was for a several reasons.
1. Sweet potatoes. yum.
2. The recipe required the butter to be frozen and then grated through a box grater. I thought this was an interesting twist to simply chilling the butter and then cutting into cubes. I wanted to see if this technique made any difference in the quality of the biscuits. It did not, as far as I could tell.
3. This recipe did NOT call for the piercing of the dough as the previous biscuit recipe did (Scott Peacock's recipe). I wanted to know if not perforating the dough would have an effect on the lightness of the biscuits. These biscuits were flat and didn't rise very much, but whether the perforation had anything to do with it, I have no idea.
In addition, I read a tip that said you should sift the flour on its own and then sift again with the other dry ingredients for more lift. Well, that didn't work.

I am wondering if I hadn't added the sweet potato, what kind of biscuit would this be?

This is my Great Biscuit Experiment and I definitely learned something from cooking these biscuits. But will I make these again? Nope.

Sweet Potato Biscuits featured on Chow.com by Kate Ramos

INGREDIENTS
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 cup whole milk
1 cup baked, mashed sweet potato about 1 medium potato
8 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 stick, frozen
Heavy cream for brushing the tops

INSTRUCTIONS
1.  Heat the oven to 400°F and arrange a rack in the middle. Combine all dry ingredients in a large
mixing bowl and set aside. In a separate large bowl, mix together milk and mashed sweet potato
until evenly combined.

2.  Grate frozen butter through the large holes of a box grater and toss with dry ingredients until
butter is coated. Add milk mixture and mix lightly until dough forms a shaggy mass.

3.  Turn out mixture onto a floured surface and knead just until it comes together. (The dough will not
be smooth.)

4.  Pat into a circle and use a floured rolling pin to roll dough to a thickness of about 3/4 inch.
Using a 4-inch biscuit cutter, cookie cutter, or glass, cut the dough into rounds. Gather leftover
dough into a circle, reroll, and cut until you have 8 large biscuits.

5.  Place biscuits on a baking sheet, brush tops with heavy cream, and bake until golden, about 12 to
15 minutes.

Monday, October 12, 2009

My favorite recipe for Banana Bread

Oh my. This bread is good. Really good. It beat out 3 other recipes for the top spot.
I was beginning to wonder if I was going to find a recipe that met my expectations. Although this recipe called for the addition of poppy seeds and dates, I politely overlooked those and stuck to tradition. Sometimes you want to reinvent the wheel and I'm all for that, but this time, I wanted a recipe that I could feel confident about making my 'go-to' banana bread recipe. Not merely a decorative touch, is the application of sliced banana on top and the dusting of powdered sugar after cooling. Beautiful.

The author of this recipe is Zoe Nathan, pastry chef at Huckleberry and Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica. The LA Times publishes readers' requests for recipes for their favorite dishes at local restaurants. Thanks to Ms. Helen Chiu of Westchester we can all partake of this delicious bread.























Banana poppy seed loaf
Total time:
1 1/2 hours
Servings: 2 loaves (about 8 servings each)
This recipe requires 2 small (8 1/2 - by-4 1/2 -by 2 1/2 -inch) metal or glass loaf pans.

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter, plus extra for greasing the pans
1 1/2 cups (6.4 ounces) flour
1 1/2 cups (6.75 ounces) whole wheat flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons poppy seeds
3/4 cup sugar plus 1 teaspoon, divided
3/8 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
5 very ripe bananas, plus 1 1/2 fresh bananas, divided
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 cup yogurt
3/4 cup coarsely chopped dates
1 to 2 tablespoons powdered sugar

1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Grease and line the bottoms of 2 (8 1/2 - by 4 1/2 - by 2 1/2 -inch) loaf pans with parchment paper.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, wheat flour, baking powder, baking soda and poppy seeds. Set aside.

3. In the bowl of a stand mixer, or in a large bowl using an electric mixer, cream together the butter, three-fourths cup sugar and salt until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, until incorporated.

4. In a medium bowl, mash the very ripe bananas. With the mixer running, add the mashed bananas and vanilla to the butter mixture until incorporated. With the mixer on the lowest speed, add the dry ingredients just until incorporated. Gently fold in the yogurt and dates. Divide the batter evenly between the 2 pans.

5. Slice the remaining 1 1/2 bananas crosswise into one-eighth inch slices. Top the batter in each pan with the banana slices, arranged in rows. Sprinkle the remaining teaspoon of sugar evenly over the sliced bananas, then place in the center of the oven (leave a few inches between the loaf pans).

6. Bake until a toothpick inserted comes out clean, about 1 hour, rotating halfway through for even baking. Check the pans after 20 to 30 minutes and periodically after that to see that they do not darken too quickly; if they do, lightly cover the tops with aluminum foil and continue to bake.

7. Cool the pans and unmold the loaves. Sift the powdered sugar evenly over the 2 loaves. Cut the loaves into 1-inch slices and serve.

*As I mentioned, I removed the poppy seeds and dates from this recipe, however, I added 3/4 cup of chopped walnuts.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Baked Beans 01 : Cast-Iron Skillet



When I was home in July, I bought a ceramic bean pot from the thrift store my mother kept telling me I really should visit. She was right. Of course. I had visions of beans sunning themselves in the blue glow of my brown gas oven in their matching brown bean pot. The bean pot did not make it home in one piece, unfortunately. So that dream was dashed, however, it did get me to thinking about baked beans and the fact that I have never cooked baked beans from scratch.  They've always started out as a can of Bush's Baked Beans which have been subsequently doctored with brown sugar, ketchup and/or BBQ sauce. Oh yeah, and maybe some mustard.

Despite the demise of the cute bean pot, I pressed onward when I picked up the "Cast-Iron Skillet Cookbook" at my nearby Barnes & Noble. Jackpot!! I am such a sucker for any recipe that calls for a cast-iron skillet. I don't know what it is, do I think that the recipe automatically HAS to be great if it's cooked in an iron skillet? Do I think that somehow I have a window into the past by simply using this tool? It's definitely a bit of both. I also love the versatility of the iron skillet, easily cooking to perfection on either the stove top or in the oven.

However, it seems I cannot read a recipe. I thought the recipe said to add all the ingredients, but in reality it said to save the salt for last. Duh, I should've known this. Always salt at the last moment with beans or else they won't absorb the water. The other problem I had, and this was not my fault, was that the recipe said to only soak the beans for 1 hr. I questioned this, but I thought I would give the recipe writers the benefit of the doubt. I ended up having to cook these beans for over 5 hours when it was only supposed to take 3. I could've cooked them longer, but I really wanted to go to bed already. That having been said, I thought these beans were quite satisfactory considering my mistakes. It was exactly what you think of when you think baked beans. I love how the onions get cooked up in the leftover bacon grease--one ingredient lending something to the next. When making this recipe again, I will remember to add the salt last and soak the beans overnight to reduce cooking time. And have a bunch of people over because I am SO over baked beans right now.


The next Baked Beans recipe I'll attempt will be from the Big Sur Bakery Cookbook and is a vastly different recipe, quite nontraditional in its ingredients.




Best Baked Beans from The Cast Iron Skillet Cookbook: Recipes for the Best Pan in Your Kitchen by Sharon Kramis & Julie Kramis Hearne

Makes 12 Servings
8 cups cold water
2-3/4 cups (1 lb) dried Great Northern Beans
4 strips of bacon
1/2 yellow onion, diced
1 cup beer, preferably pale ale
2 cups water
1/2 cup molasses
1/4 maple syrup
1 tblsp Worcestershire sauce
2 tblsp light brown sugar
2 tsp dry mustard
1 tsp paprika
2 tsp salt

1. In a large stockpot, bring the cold water to a boil over high heat. Add the beans to the boiling water and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover and let soak for 1 hour. (This is what the recipe says, but I say just soak your beans in the water overnight.) Drain in a colander and rinse the beans.

2. Heat a 10- or 12-inch cast iron skillet (the larger the better) over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook until golden, turning once. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel, pour off all but 3 tablespoons of the bacon fat.

3. Return the skillet to medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally and scraping up the browned bits from the bacon, until golden brown. Add the beans, beer, water, molasses, maple syrup, Worcestershire sauce, brown sugar, dry mustard, and paprika. Coarsely chop the bacon and add it to the skillet. Reduce the heat to medium-low (or place the skillet in a 250 deg oven) and cook, covered for 3 hours. Add water as needed to keep the beans covered. During the last half hour of cooking, remove the lid and don't add any additional water to the beans. When the beans are done, stir in the salt just before serving.

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Review of the "New" Southern Living: A Missed Opportunity for the "New South"



Yesterday my mother mentioned to me that Southern Living had updated their look and some of their content in response to feedback they'd gotten from busy readers who wanted to cultivate their 'own Southern style'. Being my compulsive self when it comes to these things, I decided I needed to go out and get the new, 'font-tastic' October issue. Like right now. Who knows what treasures awaited!
I wish.

This issue, redesigned with 'great care and respect for our heritage', missed an amazing opportunity. Lately, I've been consumed with reading books on the history of Southern cooking as well as numerous Southern cookbooks. I miss home and this is my way of trying to stay connected. So when I picked up this magazine I mistakenly thought I would get a modern hit of these old and new cookbooks and guidebooks. I was expecting some fresh grits made with real cheddar cheese and instead I got instant grits that had been sitting in a food warmer all day. I feel like this issue was a half-hearted attempt at giving the modern Southern cook something to really sink her teeth into. To me, the South has a unique perspective on history and this issue barely gave it a nod. It was a one-liner, a cop-out, a mere shadow of an amazing culinary tradition that seems to erode day by day by separating us more and more from our food.

What I did appreciate about this issue is that they kept the Southern Living House Plans segment (which I loved as a teenager), the beautiful travel photography, gardening tips and the piece on the baptism traditions in the Mississippi Delta. That was truly lovely.

On the other hand, not a single recipe piqued my interest. And I was particularly horrified by the "Mama's Way or Your Way?" segment they introduced. They compared an apple dumpling recipe made by a "Mama" named Peggy that took a total of 40 min to make and the daughter, Anne's, 'quick' recipe that took 20 min. The mother's recipe included making the dough yourself, cutting up the apples, and measuring out all the spices. In the daughter's recipe 3 out of 6 ingredients were pre-packaged and/or processed. Granted, I have definitely used frozen pie shells, and I completely understand why a busy woman would want to spare herself the time of making dough, but seriously pre-spiced and chopped frozen apples?

Is this really how a Southern magazine 'updates' itself? Is this staying true to our Southern heritage? Does 'update' mean using as many processed foods as we can find? Does adhering to Southern ways mean feeding our children trans-fats and food dyes, propylene glycol and corn syrup just so we can save 20 minutes? Being the food purist and the believer in Southern foodways that I am, I think the answer is no. I thought being Southern was taking your time, respecting culinary traditions, and enjoying every second of it.

If anything, this issue took a step backward and certainly didn't push us forward. Nothing can be compared to the food we cook ourselves. Everything changes when we prepare a recipe from start to finish, when we know exactly what each ingredient is and how to pronounce it. I heard once that simply by starting to cook again, we take something back. We take something back unto ourselves and we become healthier for it. I think cooking from scratch reminds us of what it actually means to be a Southerner, represents everything that being a Southerner is.

If I was the editor of Southern Living, here are some of the stories I'd feature, based on the book by John Egerton, "Southern Food". What do you think?

1. Heirloom Recipes with a Modern Twist. Yes, you can really make that pie dough in no time at all. Here's how.
2. Charleston's Bessinger's Barbecue....reveals the decades old secret to its famous sauce!
3. Backyard Recipes: How to Grow, Harvest, and Cook Foods from your Fall Garden.
4. The History of Pork and Corn in the South.
4. The Top 25 'Down Home' Restaurants You Have to Try Before You Die.
5. The South's New Farmer's Market Scene.
6. The War Between the States: BBQ styles from Texas to North Carolina.

I am disappointed. There is nothing like a good magazine that takes you an entire Sunday afternoon to get through because it's packed full of interesting bits of information, nearly every page dog-eared because there's something you want to remember, learn about, cook, cut out and hang on your wall for inspiration, and most of all pass on.

This is just my opinion. If you happen to pick up this issue and have been a reader of Southern Living, I would love to hear your thoughts.

Flea Market Score!


Mugs from Cooperative Design: Bennington, Vermont
I got these beautiful mugs at the John Muir Art & Antique Market in Santa Monica yesterday.
For those of you who live in the Los Angeles area, this is a good market to go to when you don't want to make the trek to the Rose Bowl. I love this market because it's small and manageable for a Saturday morning trip. There is an interesting mix of vendors here - everything from clothes to estate jewelry to vintage cookware. There was even a vendor selling really beautiful Asian wares. And the prices vary as well, you can spend a lot or you can spend a little.
These mugs called my name from about 20 feet away. First, they're my favorite color, they have the cute double handle and they're tall for the days when a regular size cup of tea is just not going to do. I wish I knew more about the Cooperative Design but I could find very little information about them online. Any ideas?

Friday, October 2, 2009

Biscuit Experiment 01: Scott Peacock's Classic Buttermilk Biscuits




The Great Biscuit Experiment

I think biscuits will do. They'll do for my very first post. You'll discover as this blog continues that I love to try all kinds of recipes for the same bread in order to find perfection. Right now, I have ongoing testings for Banana Bread, Sally Lunn Bread, No-Knead Bread, cornbread and biscuits, of course. I mean, who doesn't love biscuits? If you don't, well, maybe you should keep that to yourself. Nah, it's ok, I'll forgive you.

Where I'm from, the standard for biscuits is a light, fluffy, flaky version of gosh, I don't know, one of the best reasons for being alive? In LA, they seem to be more scone-like, more in the vein of hard pucks of lumpy bread. I think they should name them something else because those are not biscuits. Then again, I'm persnickety.

Unfortunately, there are few folks who still make homemade biscuits. You either get them from KFC, the Cracker Barrel (which I admit, I love) or you buy those cold tubes of pre-cut dough that explode when you hit them with a spoon. Seriously,what would your grandmother say if she saw you using those? She'd probably duck and run for cover. Smart lady. It's a shame because home-baked biscuits are a joy on so many levels.
Level 1: Frugality. You can now justify why you bought that long-neglected rolling pin that's been sitting in that kitchen drawer for how long now?
Level 2: Feeling like a kid again. Flour hands! Rolling out dough and using cute biscuit cutters! It's just like playing with playdough! But without the funny smell!
Level 3: Serious ego boost. Your guests will be mighty impressed. I guarantee it.
Level 4: Sensual gratification. Sense of taste? Check. Sense of smell. Absolutely. Sense of touch? Duh. Sense of sight? Are you blind? Sense of hearing? Ok, this one is a little bit harder to fulfill, but hey, at least you don't have to listen to the sound of that tube of biscuits exploding, right?

So let's get to cooking those biscuits.
Here's the first recipe I've tried that I feel is worth posting. These are from Scott Peacock who is the chef at Watershed Restaurant in Decatur, Georgia and is a Southern food expert. His book that he co-wrote with the venerable Edna Lewis, The Gift of Southern Cooking, is a must-have.

Scott Peacock's Classic Buttermilk Biscuits as posted by the NYTimes.com

1 tablespoon cream of tartar

1 ‌1⁄2 teaspoons baking soda

5 cups sifted unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt

1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons packed lard or unsalted butter, chilled and cut into pieces

2 cups chilled cultured buttermilk, plus more as needed, *see note about making buttermilk.

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted.

1. Set a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 500 degrees. Sift together the cream of tartar and baking soda to make baking powder. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Add the lard or butter. Working quickly, rub it between your fingertips until half is coarsely blended and the remaining pieces are 3/4-inch thick.

2. Make a well in center of the flour. Add all the buttermilk and stir the mixture quickly, just until it has blended and a sticky dough forms. (If the dough appears dry, add 1 to 2 tablespoons buttermilk.)

3. Immediately turn the dough onto a generously floured surface. Using floured hands, briskly knead about 10 times until a ball forms. Gently flatten the dough and, using a floured rolling pin, roll to 3/4-inch thick.

4. Using a fork dipped in flour, pierce the dough through at 1/2-inch intervals. Flour a 2 1/2- or 3-inch biscuit cutter. Stamp out rounds and arrange on a heavy, parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake until golden, about 12 minutes. Remove and brush with melted butter. Serve hot.

Makes 12 to 16 biscuits. Adapted from Scott Peacock at Watershed Restaurant in Decatur, Ga.

*Note: Making your own buttermilk is unbelievably easy and is cheaper than buying a quart of buttermilk at the store. You can also make just as much as you need rather than buying a big carton and having it go bad on you because you only used a small amount for one recipe.

Making buttermilk:

Add 1 tblsp of vinegar or lemon juice for every cup of milk. Mix together and let sit for a few minutes. The acid of the vinegar or lemon juice will curdle the milk. Voila! There's your buttermilk.